Interior Design Advice
- General Points to Consider
- Colour
- Pattern
- Wallcoverings
- Window Treatments
- Upholstery
- Buying Upholstered Furniture
General Points to Consider
When starting to create a scheme for a room, there are many questions an Interior Designer will ask their client to find out:
- Client's personality - their taste, their likes & dislikes
- Personality of the home - age / period details
- Light - is the room north / south facing
- Use of room - the atmosphere you wish to create - bright & airy / snug & cosy
- Who will use the room and how - it's functionality.
- What is the focal point in the room? This can be a large picture window, a fireplace, an alcove? What do you like best and would wish to emphasise?
- Will the scheme have a traditional / classical / contemporary feel?
- Existing furnishings & furniture - what will stay and what will go? How will this influence the rest of the room and colours / textures that can be used? Consider colour & texture, both on wallcoverings and fabrics.
Colour
Generally, it can be simplest to start with combining different shades of the same colour and then introducing a contrasting accent colour to give life and added interest to the scheme.
Consider which colours are in the room already - introducing new, different colours which either blend with or completely contrast with these existing colours may change the feel and look of the room completely.
Colour - cool colours can be very calming and can work well in rooms which are bright and sunny. By contrast, warm colours can brighten up a cold or dark room.
If there is going to be a more dominant area within the room, it can be easiest to choose this first. Consider whether this is to be a feature wall with a wow factor wallpaper, or your curtains if you have large windows, or your upholstery if the room will be filled with several sofas / chairs. Coordinating / contrasting textures, colours and patterns can then be chosen around this.
Pattern
If choosing a strong or striking pattern, see if the fabric company in question has used this in any promotional room set photographs, as this will give you a better idea as to how it will look in a larger piece and 'made up'.
Obtain the largest piece of fabric you can and pin this to your existing curtains - you may wish to purchase a one metre length to give you a better idea as to how this fabric works in terms of the colour and pattern on a larger scale - you can still use this later for cushions.
Wallcoverings
Consider the quality of the walls to be covered- are there cracks or uneven areas?
Consider the shape of the room - are there any awkward corners - are the walls level and true - do the corners meet at right angles (if not, forget striped wallpapers!) Always paint at least a square metre area of wall in your proposed paint colour, and look at this at various times of the day, to see it in different lights. Likewise with wallpapers, obtain the largest sample you can, and then pin this to your wall.
Wallcoverings are returning to favour again, particularly the use of striking designs for feature walls. Combine these with coordinating plainer wallcoverings or a paint finish in the rest of the room. Consider carefully the size of your room, in particular the height of your walls, when choosing the scale of the pattern of your wallcovering.
Window Treatments
Please see the mood board section for different curtain heading ideas.
The style of curtains to be used will be governed by the style of the room e.g. traditional or contemporary, the shape of the window, the height of the curtains and the fabric itself.
The curtain heading used should be chosen to show off the fabric to the fullest, ensuring that any pleating falls in such a way that the pattern of the fabric is highlighted. This is where using the services of a professional curtainmaker is to be recommended.
Consider adding borders down the leading edges of the curtains, or panels in a contrasting fabric at the top of bottom of the fabric to add further interest and create a more contemporary look.
Consider the depth of any pelmet or valance heading - classic proportions suggest that these should generally be around one fifth to one sixth of the overall finished drop of the curtains.
Think about the functionality of your curtains - do they need to protect furniture from the sun during the daytime? Do you want blackout curtains in your bedroom?
If you have a lot of window area to dress, consider a less expensive fabric, but then dress it up with gorgeous trimmings or a border and maybe a stunning pole too. Plain silks can work out to be an inexpensive option, and providing they are professionally made and traditionally interlined, can look luxurious and sumptuous and far more expensive than they really are!
Wherever possible, use interlining in your curtains - an absolute must with silk or finer fabrics, as this really adds body to your curtains and helps them to hang much better. Always use the best quality lining, as this will help protect your fabric from the effects of the sun.
Traditional Window Treatments
Traditional window treatments such as swags and tails look wonderful in a period home, but can be out of place and too fussy for a modern home, where a simpler design can be far more effective.
Fabrics to consider in a traditional scheme include damasks, silks and embroidered floral silks and velvets. The colours are also important - rich reds or deep blues and purples will give a very opulent period feel to a room.
Poles can be very decorative and elaborate - heavy wooden poles with beautifully carved finials and holdbacks.
Headings to choose from would include goblets, swags and tails and curtains with attached valances - either goblets or pleats.
Pelmets can be more detailed - shaped pelmets as elaborate as you wish to be!
Trimmings can be very much a part of a traditional window treatment - fringes and braids can be used to edge both the curtains and any pelmet, and tassels can also be incorporated - smaller tassels within a pelmet design and larger tiebacks to sweep the curtains back. An attached valance can look very effective with a bullion fringing along the bottom.
Classic Window Treatments
Classic curtains tend to be simple and unfussy, and in fabrics that will not date.
Consider textured fabrics such as silks, linens and velvets, damasks. Plain fabrics or those with simple two tone / two coloured patterns.
Headings should be kept simple too - pencil pleats, box pleats or double / triple pinch pleats work well, hung from a simple pole with a wood stain finish. Also consider a simple rectangular pelmet in the same fabric, or a contrasting plain - this plain contrast could also be introduced as a border on the leading edges of the curtains.
Keep any trimmings unfussy and simple too, or leave these off completely.
Contemporary Window Treatments
The adage 'less is more' holds true here.
Often Roman Blinds are considered as an alternative in a contemporary setting, but curtains certainly have their place too - well made, lined and interlined curtains will always be more effective in insulating a room against cold in the winter and heat in the summer, and they absorb sound more effectively too.
Keep the window treatment very simple - eyelets are a popular choice, but also consider a cartridge heading hung from a sleek pole - maybe chrome / steel or a light wood stain - beech for example. A plain rectangular pelmet also works well, and in contemporary interiors, a shallow rather than a deep pelmet can look very smart.
Fabrics to consider would include plains, textured plains or a mix of different plains together with bands or borders in contrasting colours.
Colour has made its way back big time, in defiance to the years of neutrals and creams.
Do bear in mind that strong colours with dominant patterns can take a while to get used to, and you may tire of these more quickly. The bolder the colour and pattern, the more you must simply adore the fabric and be sure you can live with it!
Country / Rustic Window Treatments
Again, keep it simple.
Curtains with an attached floppy valance work well (the valance can be in a contrasting fabric), as do pencil and pinch pleats.
Fabrics to consider are fresh floral printed cottons and chintzes, checks and stripes - ginghams for example - don't be afraid to mix these.
Poles can be oak or pine with simple finials.
Keep away from fussy trimmings - consider simple braids or button braids.
Tiebacks in the same fabric as the curtains.
Poles
When choosing your pole, think carefully about your choice of material, taking note of the other furnishings in your room as well as the fabric itself. If the room is very contemporary, you may wish to consider a metal pole or a beech one with very contemporary finials. Consider what metals there are already in the room - are the door and window fittings brass or chrome? It may look more coordinated to have your pole in the same finish.
Likewise, if you have a wooden floor, or natural wood doors rather than painted ones, you may wish to use a similar wood finish for your poles.
Crucially, always consider the colour of the pole against the colour of your fabric - one must compliment the other.
In a bedroom, consider the bed, which is most probably the focal point in the room. A pole can echo the wood or metal from the bed frame.
Alternatively, consider a padded pelmet to give a soft frame to the window.
Upholstery
When choosing your upholstery, there are many different factors to take into account.
Although once upon a time most people purchased a three piece suite, these days Sofas and Chairs are mixed and matched, both in terms of their shape and their fabrics, to create more interest and seating variety within a room.
Upholstery Fabrics
You must ensure that your choice of fabric is suitable for upholstery. There are 2 factors to take into account.
The first is whether the fabric is durable. Fabrics which are to be used for upholstery should be tested by the fabric manufacturers to confirm the durability of the fabric. This testing gives a result often called the Martindale or rub test. The higher the rub test, the more hard wearing the fabric. Fabric companies tend to have slightly different ideas as to how many rubs should be considered necessary for each category of use, but the following is a rough guide:
- Under 12,000 rubs - decorative upholstery only e.g. a bedroom chair etc
- 12,000 - 15,000 - light upholstery use in the home e.g. chairs which will not be used a great deal
- 20,000 - 30,000 - suitable for general upholstery use within the home (15,000 for some weaves)
- 30,000 - 40,000 - very hard wearing fabric suitable for upholstery in the home which will receive a lot of wear, or suitable for use in a commercial environment e.g. a restaurant or hotel
Secondly, fabrics must either meet the UK fire regulations, or be used with a schedule 3 interliner. The fire regulations are covered by the Furniture and Furnishing (Fire) (Safety) Regulations 1988.
Fabrics to be used for Domestic Upholstery (i.e. for use in the home) must be tested in accordance with BS 5852 part 1, and must pass both the cigarette and match tests B and H:
- B - Resistant to smouldering cigarette tested over standard foam plus 2 oz polyester wrap (Cigarette test).
- H - Match resistant (Match Test)
- BM - If the fabric does not meet these standards, it will often be classified as BM indicating that it is Exempt under the Fire Regulations and may only be used for upholstery with a schedule 3 interliner. Alternatively fabrics can be FR backcoated to bring them up to the required fire safety standards.
There are some fabrics which have to be backcoated due to their composition, and others which are better used with an interliner.
If fabrics are to be used in a commercial /contract environment such as a hotel, restaurant, meeting hall etc, then further fire regulations must be adhered to. In these instances, the fabrics must meet BS 5852 parts 1 and 2, when it will be classified as Crib 5 or BH5.
Please contact us if you have any further queries regarding this.
Buying Upholstered Furniture
Making Your Choice
When buying upholstered furniture, the selection of products appears endless. There are many different styles, designs and price ranges. The temptation is to make the selection based on what looks good, feels comfortable (often after only sitting in it for a few minutes), fits in with the home colour scheme and meets the budget. However, strength, durability and maintenance requirements should also be considered.
Lifestyles have changed, and as a result, upholstered furniture typically receives considerably more use than it did 30 or 40 years ago. Price is not necessarily an indication of durability.
The following easy to read articles describe some of the factors that should be considered when buying upholstery:
- The frame
- Springs and webbing
- Cushions
- Upholstery fabrics
- Fire safety
- Delivery
- Caring for your upholstery
- Tips when choosing upholstered furniture
The Frame
The frame is the 'skeleton' of a suite, to which all the different suspension and upholstery components are attached. It should be well made, stable and strong enough not to break or give way in normal use.
Frames can be made from a variety of materials, which can include wood, metal and plastic parts. But generally sofa frames are made from hardwood, or from a mixture of hardwood, softwoods in stress areas, chipboard, plywood or fibreboard. Many manufacturers combine hardwood and softwood.
However this does not mean that a non-wood frame is a poor option - these materials can still be used to make a sofa frame that is sufficiently strong and stable, but with a difference in the overall price.
Springs and Webbings
A number of suspension systems are used for upholstered seating The most common assembles for sofas today are a series of serpentine or zigzag springs, or elasticated webbing made from either rubber or fabric. Other spring systems used include fishmouth sprung front edge units and coil springs.
Serpentine or sinuous springs are fixed to the seat, back and arm sections of the frame, front to back, and securely fixed via various types of metal fixings or clips. Put simply, there should be at least five springs for each seat, dependant on the length. The frame fixing clips should be securely attached and someone sitting on the sofa or chair should not be able to feel any sharp edges through the upholstery. The suspension system provides flexible support for the seat, back and arms and is normally covered, which helps to ensure the user does not easily feel the clips or springs.
Alternately, rubber or fabric elasticated webbing can be used which provides a flexible support system for the sofa or chair. There must be a sufficient number of webs to maintain the support system. The webbing system may be interlaced across the front to back webs to give additional support.
The suspension is the major support system and must be capable of withstanding the constant initial impact of someone sitting down during the life of the furniture. Some sprung seat platforms incorporate a flexible front edge for improved comfort and reduced cushion wear.
Avoid anything that creaks or squeaks.
Cushions
There are three main types of cushion interior - foam, feather or polyester fibre. Customarily, thin layers or sheets of foam are placed on the suspension system and covered by either the main decorative fabric or by a less expensive non-visible platform or lining cloth to reduce wear on reversible cushions. Thus a platform is formed for the seat, back and arm 'sitting' surfaces of the sofa, according to the design, onto which separate upholstered cushions are placed. These cushions may be fixed, loose or detachable via a series of zip fastenings.
Foam
Foam is a popular filling for upholstery. It is resilient, flexible, easy to manipulate, and can be moulded or shaped to meet the most complex upholstery styles and designs. Upholstery seat cushions are predominantly filled with foam. They will soften in the first few months until they find their natural balance and this is quite normal.
Foam seat cushions are often wrapped in polyester fibre wadding to give an even softer feel for initial comfort and to reduce wear.
Feather and fibre
Modern upholstered furniture predominantly contains feather or fibre filled back and/or seat cushions. Both are popular for comfort because you sit 'in' them rather than 'on' them. But they do require a lot of plumping-up to retain their shape, and some people are allergic to feathers or the dust they generate. Feather and/or fibre cushion infills are often produced in sections to reduce the likelihood of the filling moving around inside the cushion where downward movement could be a problem. They are liable to appear 'untidy' after use but the original look can usually be restored by smoothing out creases to avoid premature fabric wear and frequent plumping for shape retention.
There is no universal 'standard' for the plumping of seat and back cushions, and your retailer will be able to give you specific advice about care requirements. The Furniture Ombudsman recommends regular plumping.
Upholstery Fabrics
Whilst all parts of upholstered furniture (frame, suspension, cushions and fabric) are important, the cover fabric usually attracts the most attention since it is the most visible element with the surface in constant contact with the user. The cover is subject to constant abrasion and flexing through body contact and will almost certainly wear out before the frame or fillings.
Taking time to understand about fabrics will ensure that you choose the right product for you, and that it wears well for its intended location.
Textiles
There can be a vast range of different cover materials to choose from. Durability is not necessarily proportional to price so it is important to choose carefully. The best guide to performance is whether fabric is suitable for 'occasional', 'light', 'general', or 'severe' domestic use.It is important you discuss your requirements, needs and expectations with the retailer.
A large number of fabrics meet the 'general domestic use' standard. You need to weigh up the kind of use the sofa will get and purchase one with a fabric capable of meeting those conditions. Modern lifestyles make great demands on upholstery and the average family would be well advised to opt for a 'general' or 'severe' fabric grade.
Most fabrics in a display swatch are suitable for 'general domestic use'. Where this is not the case, fabric samples often have information on them about their suitability. If your retailer does not know the fabric's rating he can obtain this information from the manufacturer.
Textiles are generally graded as follows:
- Light domestic use - Fabrics for light domestic use are generally fashion fabrics; these are suitable for light, careful living room use.
- General domestic use - Fabrics for general domestic use are suitable for most styles of upholstery.
- Severe domestic use - Fabrics classified as 'severe domestic' use are suitable for upholstery likely to be used throughout the day.
Leather
Leather is a natural product with its own unique characteristics - style, comfort, and durability. It will have been subjected to many environments and may bear natural marks and blemishes. The natural scars show that it is the real thing and should not give cause for concern.
There are different types of leather, classified as follows:
- Aniline leather - This is a leather that has been dyed to colour, but has not received any coating or surface finish. This has the advantage of showing the natural leather off at its best including evidence of natural marks and blemishes. This type of leather may need additional care and is likely to show all the signs of wear and tear. It will take on a 'lived in' appearance, which is a natural characteristic and adds to the charm to the product.
- Semi-aniline leather - This leather has a small amount of surface coating which still allows the natural characteristics to be seen, whilst also protecting against soiling and aiding the use of cleaning products.
- By-cast leather (split leather) - This is produced from the lower split of leather by melting a type of glue on the surface, then rolling on a film of coloured polyurethane. This varies in quality and can lighten when stretched and scratch easily.
- Pigmented leather - This leather has a surface finish that gives a more soil resistant and durable finish that is easy to maintain. A pigment surface finish also allows leather to be produced in a range of fashionable colours (this should not be confused with By-cast leather).
- Nubuck and suede - These leathers are buffed on the wearing (grain) side to give a velvet like nap. They are not surface coated and so are easily soiled, and the velvet surface can become flattened in use.
- Antique appearance leather - This leather has surface lacquers applied, which are designed to rub off in use and give an 'antique' or lived-in appearance. This is often pleasing and complements certain styles of upholstery very well. However, it should be borne in mind that the surface colour is designed to wear in this way; consequently the overall appearance will change more than with other types of leather.
The introduction of softer, more supple leathers alongside brighter, modern shades has increased the sales of leather furniture making them more popular than ever. A leather cover is normally expected to last longer than a typical modern textile upholstery covering. However as with anything, the lifetime of the leather cover will depend on the type of use and care it receives.
Fire Safety
Domestic upholstered furniture must meet fire safety standards, which cover the fabrics, foam fillings and non-foam fillings.
When purchasing any upholstered furniture look for the display label - a swing ticket attached to the furniture, which should be easily visible. The permanent label may be located under a loose seat cushion or if the upholstery is fixed, secured to the base of the item or located at the junction between the seat and back.
For more detailed information read our articles on the upholstered furniture regulations.
Delivery
When buying upholstery, take a tape measure to check that you can get the furniture into the desired room and that it will fit the intended location.
Some retailers offer a 'trial delivery' service whereby they can check whether the furniture will fit before a firm delivery is placed.
When your furniture arrives at your home, check carefully that it is 'as ordered' and fault-free. Damage and defects should be reported as soon as possible so that the matter can be resolved swiftly and satisfactorily.
Caring for Your Upholstery
Proper care and maintenance will prolong the life of your furniture. Look for any available information - it is often hidden and may be a label under the seat cushion, in the seat/back junction, or on the base. Alternatively it may be provided separately as a small pamphlet. If you are unable to find any information, then ask.
It is recommended that care and maintenance instructions for the furniture selected are obtained from the retailer and should be followed in preference to any other advice. However, here are a few simple instructions:
- Lightly vacuum upholstery once a week, less frequently for feather filled cushions. Dust removal may be improved by pre-brushing with a soft brush. Accumulated dirt will accelerate wear and dull colours.
- Regularly turn and interchange the positions of reversible cushions on constantly used upholstery. This will prevent excessive soiling and uneven wear.
- Zips at the back of cushion covers are there to aid the manufacturing process and do not necessarily mean that the cover is removable for cleaning purposes.
- Smooth out creases in the cushions to prevent them becoming permanent and causing early wear.
- Avoid exposing furniture to direct sunlight and/or heat whether direct or indirect for long periods of time as this may result in fading or degradation. Protect the furniture by drawing curtains and blinds wherever possible.
- Avoid repetitious wear on small areas of the fabric, such as arms and front edges of cushions.
- Avoid snagging the fabric - pets' claws, jewellery, buckles, zips/studs etc. are all potential hazards.
- It is difficult to give general instructions on home cleaning since different fabrics require specialist cleaning techniques. Consequently using a professional upholstery cleaner is recommended. The effectiveness of the specialist cleaning will depend upon the degree of soiling so it is advisable to have this done before dirt becomes too deeply embedded in the fabric. We would recommend at least every 12 to 18 months.
- Leather should be cleaned in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. The use of cleaning solutions or preparations on products for which they were not intended could damage the surface of the leather.
- The best advice where care instructions for the leather are not available is to wipe the leather with a damp lint free cloth, using a mild soap solution when necessary as a last resort. The affected area should be rubbed gently until the soil is removed; never use detergent and take care not to soak the leather. Alternatively, contact the manufacturer for assistance.
- Trim loose threads, don't pull them
- Don't put pressure on unsupported panels of upholstery (e.g. outside arms and backs) and don't sit on the arms.
- If accidental spillage or damage occurs, take professional advice to ensure it is dealt with properly.
- Do not wash or dry clean the fabric of your furniture unless the manufacturer's instructions specifically state that this can be done. Do not clean/wash only part of the upholstery where the product is designed to be maintained in this way, owing to possible colour change.
- Ensure your furniture is professionally cleaned regularly.
Tips when Choosing Upholstered Furniture
- Check the overall shape, look at the fabric and if pattern matching is important to you, confirm if this is possible if not obvious on the display model.
- Feel the padding on the arms and back, and below the front rail. If you can feel the frame easily with little pressure, this may cause premature wear of the upholstery fabric.
- Upholstered furniture should be tried for a reasonable time, in a way that you would normally sit, in order to assess whether it suits you. Remember foam softens naturally after the first few months of use until it finds its own balance.
- Ask how long the product has been on display - this will give you some idea of how the suite will appear and feel after a period of use.
- Move around on the furniture and avoid anything that squeaks or creaks.
- Sit on the furniture with your partner or a friend and check that the cushions do not push you towards the centre or tip you forwards. The cushions should fit snugly and there should be no gaps between adjacent cushions or arms.
- The back should provide firm support to the lower part of your back. Check you do not have to lean back too much. You should be able to sit with your back firmly supported with your feet on the floor.
- Remember cushions filled with feather or fibre will compress and crease and will need regular plumping-up to retain their shape.
- Consider how much you will use the item and ask about the fabric - is it suitable for general or sever domestic use?
- If the furniture has a recliner action, check that the mechanism does not rub against the cover fabric as this could lead to premature cover wear.
- Look for information labels or pamphlets providing care and maintenance instructions and/or details on the furniture's suitability for domestic use. Ask if you cannot find any. Upholstered furniture comes in many shapes and sizes - ensure that you can fit it through your front door and that it will fit your room.
- When the selected furniture arrives at your home, check that it is what you ordered and that it is fault free. Any problems or damage should be reported immediately so that they can be dealt with promptly and satisfactorily.
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